Tag Archives: fur

Dior Fall 2014 – Couture.

my favorite looks from Christian Dior‘s Fall 2014 Couture show – Raf Simons continues to deliver…

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*images courtesy of style.com.

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haider ackermann f/w 2010.

i was never good at origami.

i’ve always admired the look though – which is probably one of the many reasons why i’m completely enamored with haider ackermann’s f/w 2010 runway collection. that, and the dark colors, the rich leather, the fur…

haider ackermann f/w 2010: 1-3 of 9.

haider ackermann f/w 2010: 4-6 of 9.

haider ackermann f/w 2010: 6-9 of 9.

jacket larger for detail...

black jacket larger for detail...

dress larger for detail...

*original images courtesy of style.com; created images property of g.cheng & imunlisted.wordpress.com.

galliano noir, deux.

i have been a bit behind in posting my recent purchases… so here goes.

1. john galliano black wool jacket w/ silk lining + full-length skirt:

– newest purchase, literally. i just bought this today, and it is also one of the newer (read: non-vintage) pieces in my closet.  the high-waist, black wool + silk skirt is as gorgeous as the jacket; it is extremely and insanely long, and floats away from the body as you move. it has detailed, body-conscious darting in the back, as well as a 14-button closure. no zippers.

john galliano jacket - unbuttoned.

john galliano jacket - buttoned.

suit ribbon + beading detail.

2. vintage adrienne vittadini black silk + sequin dress:

adrienne vittadini dress - front.

adrienne vittadini dress - back.

3. vintage black lace cocktail dress:

– the lace skirt of this dress has a beautiful scalloped edge that extends a little over the lining. the seam along the right side of the skirt was torn about 6 inches, but i easily stitched it back together.

vintage black lace dress.

4. vintage yves saint laurent moss green leather jacket:

– this is such an unusual color for a leather jacket, and is unbelievably soft.

yves saint laurent jacket.

5. vintage cream knee-length mink coat:

– you can’t tell from the photo, but this coat is in need of some restoration. there is a long split in the pelt on one sleeve, and there are two or three additional  very small separations between pelts here and there. the condition of the fur itself, however, is excellent – super soft, with no stains, bald patches, or signs of wear along the pockets, collar, sleeves, or hem. (these are all things you should check for or ask about before purchasing a vintage fur!) i called sakowitz to get a quote on how much a repairs would cost, and after presenting my find at the register, was given a rewarding discount. hopefully this coat will be getting some much deserved TLC soon!

vintage mink coat.

6. afghan handmade silver-over-bronze lapis necklace:

– i was told that the owner of the shop i bought this from purchased this in person on a trip to afghanistan several years ago.

afghan silver & bronze lapis necklace.

7. vintage yves saint laurent gold tone belt buckle:

– whoops! almost forgot this one… (below par photo taken with my blackberry).

yves saint laurent belt buckle.

fur fights “brr’s”…

…though it doesn’t really get too many chances here in Texas!

hallelujah! el fin of my summer classes! i will be rushing to finish up some DIY’s i’ve been dying to get to – and get two of them to the boys who commissioned them. (david & jimmy, thanks for being so patient!) hopefully i don’t screw up and i can post them on here for your viewing pleasure. speaking of viewing pleasure, here’s a quick recent purchase post: about a week ago, i snagged a great vintage genuine fur stole from the 1940-50’s! it’s a gorgeous mahogany, with dark brown stripes. it’s very glossy, but i’m afraid the original owner boxed it up – which my readers know from my “i.love.vintage.” post is a fur care no-no. alas – i’ll have to send it to a fur cleaner to have it cleaned and hopefully have some of the “fluffiness” restored. it’s due to the flatness that i can’t tell for sure if it’s mink or muskrat fur… diagnosis to be made later. other recent purchases included a pair of vintage skinny black suede pants, and a dead stock (new but discontinued) sterling star cut-out ring, with a diamond chip in the center. i’ll definitely be thrifting up a storm on my little road trip through college station & austin – apparently everyone i was hoping to see in college station and san antonio are headed to austin this weekend as well, so i’ve changed plans and will be in austin for most of the weekend.

p.s., readers: surprise! i know you stop by and visit, because wordpress has a “stats” page. it tells me how many people have stopped by to take a look-see, and what pages/posts were read. i love that you come here, but it seems you all need encouragement to drop a line! just in case you thought you needed a wordpress account to post a comment – you don’t. i’d love to hear from any of you, and get opinions on fashion posts, or even questions about the topics i’ve written about. as long as everyone is agreeable or disagrees politely, come one, come all.

vintage fur stole - front. the collar extends down the front to serve as pockets!

vintage fur stole - front. the collar extends down the front to serve as pockets!

vintage fur stole - back

vintage fur stole - back

menswear s/s 2010.

gentlemen, i haven’t forgotten about you.

while i have only discussed women’s fashion up to now, the truth of the matter is, my heart’s true love is menswear. menswear had a constant weight and simplicity womens clothing seems to lack some seasons. gloria, you’ve got a shoe and handbag obsession you can’t possibly love menswear more than womens wear, you say. au contraire, mon cherie – i must point out that my shoe and bag obsession sprout from my love of leather; pebbled, stained, suede…everything goes except patent. i also love fur, and thick, heavy raw materials, like canvas, hemp, thick cotton and wool, and jute. these natural, bare materials along with clean lines and simple creasing and pleating are much more abundant in men’s clothing. of course, i love linen and seersucker and lightweight cotton on men as well – the point i’m trying to get across is menswear always has heft, or a feeling of substance and structure women’s clothing doesn’t always have, or even feels is important. i’ve only just begun checking out the menswear shows for s/s 2010, but i’m loving what i’ve seen so far…

first up, i die for bottega veneta’s menswear for spring/summer 2010. the neutrals, the layered browns, the cuffed pants…love. the browns are then paired with army greens and rich blues – such a rugged and easy look, yet also shows thought and effort. later on, the show gives way to shocks of color – a sharp black suit that nods to the 80’s with it’s double-breasted jacket and straight shoulders, segues into the same suit except sent down the runway in bright red, then orange. bright purples and red-shade ensembles are next, then transition to dark reds and rust colors. the show ends on dark browns and black leather. excellent, excellent show all around. while i personally don’t prefer to see men in “frou frou” colors like pink and purple, the tailoring and styling at bottega never made me question the sexuality of the model wearing the clothes; consistently masculine shapes, fabrics, and feel, regardless of color.

next, ermenegildo zegna menswear spring/summer 2010. first, this was classic zegna. the color palette was gorgeous – grays, whites, creams, and dusty roses, blues, and lavenders. contradictory to bottega (and as you’ll see later, jil sander), the cut of zegna, especially the pants, were loose and billowy, a very linen pant type cut; perfect summer pants, if you will. clean, airy, soothing – stupendous. love, love, loved the colors in this – country engineer makes it big and hits the city was the image that came to mind.

finally, my last favorite of what i’ve been able to ogle at so far: jil sander menswear spring/summer 2010. completely contrasting the two aformentioned designers, jil sander also presented a very “jil sander” show – minimalist, black and white, extremely simple and clean lines. the model’s close-cut, cropped hair mirrored the slim fit of the clothes. except for the odd picasso/renaissance-esque face print on several otherwise white shirts, the show was very plain and predictable, but undeniably classic. i also fell in lust with the white bucks in this show…i already own a pair of cream suede bucks, but i am now on the hunt for a pair of white ones. i loved the first look – so geek chic – and the 3 great dark suits that ended the show. definitely staples for the [man’s] wardrobe.

i also took a gander at gucci, versace, and burberry menswear lines for s/s 2010, but while they weren’t bad, nothing in them really caught my eye. interesting, since christopher bailey (designer for burberry) has done an excellent job with the women’s resort 2010, in my opinion. gucci did have beautiful white suits and to-die-for white leather driving loafers…i have white leather driving moccasins by minnetonka, but i don’t have white leather driving loafers, per say… i can’t believe even watching men’s fashion shows inspires me to shop. i have a hole in my pocket. next up on my list of designers and shows to check out for menswear s/s 2010: salvatore ferragamo, dsquared, and john varvatos.

gents: check out some videos, photos, and reviews of the shows yourselves, and get inspired and creative.

*photos courtesy of GQ and GQ – UK.

favorite looks from bottega veneta menswear s/s 2010.

favorite looks from bottega veneta menswear s/s 2010.

favorite looks from ermenegildo zegna menswear s/s 2010.

favorite looks from ermenegildo zegna menswear s/s 2010.

favorite looks from jil sander menswear s/s 2010.

favorite looks from jil sander menswear s/s 2010.

i. love. vintage.

…and you should fall in love too.

behold, my closet (below). i’m sure my readers can see just from a glance that it is chock-full of vintage. why should you love vintage?

1. quality: vintage clothes are on the whole, better quality than the clothes made today. even the polyester was of a different level – skipping the 70’s… when buying, note that quality poly dresses and blouses (for example, from the 80’s) should be thicker and have weight and heft, and should flow away from the body like silk.

2. uniqueness: not only are most clothes today mass produced, they are mass produced in poor taste. while many people enjoy “ego clothes”, or clothes that gain coveted status purely from their price tags, why not throwback to the good old days of glamour and take pride in your clothes because they are one-of-a-kind?

3. price: depending on where you shop, vintage should be easy on your budget. unless you’re looking for something specific, such as vintage kenzo, yves saint laurent, chanel, lanvin, alaia…etc., leave the vintage boutiques to those with pockets deep enough for them. thrift stores and other resale shops can hold a wealth of old-to-new items for the keen of eye.

now that we’ve covered why, let me give you a few simple tips on how. first, be sure to buy something of good quality. for example: gentlemen, if you want a warm vintage coat, buy wool; ladies, it’s best to buy dresses in silk if you can. wool keeps you warm while cotton keeps you cool; silk keeps you cool when it’s hot but doesn’t leave you unprotected when it’s cold. (this doesn’t apply to chiffon…) don’t just go by looks, buying a quality vintage piece means you can be sure a piece that is as old as you are the moment you bought it also has the ability to grow old with you. one very important rule is don’t be swayed simply by a big name – even if you stumble across vintage chanel or gucci, if the piece is tattered beyond restoration, or even an expensive restoration, walk away. this rule also applies to clothes that don’t fit quite right. if an alteration looks like it’s moving far beyond reasonable, don’t buy it. finally, this is not a costume party – buying vintage is an investment; try to purchase pieces that are classic, and can be worn many ways, and for many years.

my fascination with vintage started in high school, and has become an obsession. my collection has grown to include vintage fendi, coach, louis vuitton, chanel, bill blass, oleg cassini, geoffrey beene, oscar de la renta, diane von furstenburg, victor costa, ralph lauren, tahari, henri bendel, diane fres, etienne aigner, givenchy, carolina herrera, as well as limited edition pieces from saks fifth avenue and neiman marcus. the prides of my collection are probably my furs – rabbit, mink, wolf, and fox. those for animal rights can certainly appreciate recycling old fur, as well as the added benefit of the profit from selling donated furs bought from thrift stores and many resale shops goes to charity. keep in mind when buying fur that mink and fox are the most coveted, while rabbit should be the cheapest to come by. raccoon and monkey fur were also popular, but are not as easily injectable into the modern wardrobe, in my opinion. the most valuable pieces should be made of whole pelts – you should not be able to tell color difference between pelts, or see a seam. knowing how to care for these pieces protects your investment. do a little research on how to care for your items, whether they be silk or wool or fur. for example, a common mistake is hanging clothing for long periods of time in plastic. if you’re not careful, clothes can mold when stored this way. another mistake is boxing up or bagging fur – fur should be allowed to hang freely. a little bit of know-how can save you a lot of grief in the long run.

so you’ve had your crash course – but the best part of vintage shopping is the hunt!

have fun, and good luck!

the vault.

the vault.